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Cultural Corner: Bon Om Touk

Rowers racing a long boat on the Siem Reap river during the Water Festival
Image Credit: Viphou / siemreaper.com

Water Festival, or Bon Om Touk, is one of Cambodia’s biggest holidays. It marks the end of the rainy season, when the Tonle Sap River changes direction and starts flowing back out of the great lake. And we celebrate it for three days. The dates follow the lunar calendar, and this year it runs from November 23 to 25.

Day 1: The races begin

The boat races are the main event. Long, narrow boats carry dozens of rowers each, with teams from different villages and provinces racing side by side. Many trace the tradition back to the Angkor era. Check the walls of the Bayon temple, and you will find war boats carved into them.

People claim the riverbanks early, so don’t arrive at noon expecting a front-row spot. Pick a team; nobody checks your loyalty. After dark, look out for Bondet Protit, lit floats drifting down the river to thank the water for another year of rice.

Day 2: Thanking the moon

A table of fruit, coconuts, flowers and candles set out for the moon salutation
Image Credit: Kampucheathmey

More races fill the afternoon, then the full moon takes over. Families set out fruit and light incense for Sampeah Preah Khae, the moon salutation, praying for a good year ahead. While you’re looking up, find the rabbit. Khmer legend says it’s the Buddha in an earlier life, and the moon rituals honor him.

Around midnight comes Ak Ambok: new harvest rice, toasted and pounded flat, mixed with coconut or banana. Elders feed a handful to the kids and ask what they’re wishing for. If a Khmer family adopts you for the night, expect a handful too ;)

Day 3: Finals day

Crowds walking under woven lanterns along the Siem Reap riverside
Image Credit: Keo Sopherth / Writers

The best crews race for the title, and the winners are crowned with prizes. The stalls stay open late, and the riverside stays busy into the night before everyone heads home.

Joining in?

If you plan to visit the Siem Reap riverside, come and cheer for any team you like, and try ambok from a street stall. Dress modestly near pagodas and expect crowds and road closures along the river.

Need more insider tips on how to make the most of the holiday? Just chat with our House Captain or any Commune staff.

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